تويت
التصوير الفوتوغرافي الحديث
صنع الطباعة ..
إجراءات الطباعة العامة ..
إصلاح الطباعة ..
غسل الطباعة ..
FIXING THE PRINT
After the rinse or stop bath , transfer the print to the fixing solution in the third tray and rock it gently for 10 to 15 seconds .
At this point , your hands are wet with fixing solution . It is important not to contaminate the developer or to get fixing solution on clothes or pieces of equipment , so rinse your hands thoroughly in running water and dry them on a clean towel . Never wipe fixer - laden hands without rinsing - you only get the chemicals on the towel so that they will come off on your hands every time you wipe them .
If the fixer is fresh , you can turn on the white light and examine the print almost immediately , otherwise it is safer to wait a half minute or so . The best print quality is obtained when the development time recommended by the manufacturer is adhered to exactly . True , if the print is overexposed and comes up with a rush , you can often save it by pulling it out of the developer before the full time is up , or if you have underexposed it , you can let it develop longer to make it dark enough . Neither print , however , will have the rich coloring , the snap , and the well defined tones of a first - class print . That is why it is so important to use a clock when developing prints - only in that way can you be sure of correct exposure and correct development .
If the test print becomes too dark in less than 45 seconds , make another one with half the exposure ; if it is too light even after 2 minutes of developing , make another with twice the exposure . You should by this means finally arrive at the exposure which will give you a good print in the recommended development time .
If your negative is right , it will print best on normal paper . However , it may be too contrasty or too flat , in which case you will have to use some other grade of paper to get the best possible print . Before you leave the print you have just made and go on to the next negative , examine it again under white light to see if its contrast is correct . If the highlights have some tone separation and are not all a pure white , the shadows are rich black and all the intermediate tones correctly rendered in the proper shade of gray , the contrast is correct and you can proceed to the next negative . If the highlights are gray instead of white and the shadows not black enough , the print needs more contrast - try a harder paper , such as a No. 3 , 4 , or even 5. If all the highlights are blank white paper , the shadows a deep black , and most of the middle tones either too dark or too light , the print needs less contrast - try a softer paper , such as a No. 1 or even a No. 0 .
When you try another contrast grade , you may have to make another test print because the speed of any paper is somewhat different for each contrast grade . This difference varies among different brands of paper , so no general rule can be given here , except that the more contrasty grades are usually slower .
Fix the prints for 10 minutes , but be sure to separate them occasionally so they are all exposed to fresh fixing solution during the entire time . Do not overfix them . The longer you fix , the longer it takes to wash the fixing agent out of the fibers of the paper . Also , the fixer dissolves the silver image , although very slowly . If a print is left in the fixing solution for more than 15 minutes in warm weather , some of the highlight detail will be lost and the washing time will be greatly increased . This subject is discussed more fully later .
WASHING THE PRINT
When the prints are fully fixed , put them in a tray of running water and wash them at least 45 minutes . However , if the water doesn't circulate well in the tray , or if it is rather cold , better increase washing time to 1 hour or more . Washing is always figured from the time the last print goes to wash , regardless of how long the others may have been in the water .
A simple washer can be made from a large tray by attaching a rubber hose to a faucet and letting it run along the inside of the tray for 3 or 4 inches . This will impart a swirling motion to the water and keep the prints moving . However , a siphon , such as is shown in Figure 12 does a much better job and is recommended .
NOTE : You can reduce washing time considerably through the use of a good hypo eliminator . This step is discussed later in this Assignment in connection with the washing of enlargements .
When washing is complete , remove the prints from the water , drain thoroughly and roll them up in a blotter roll to dry overnight . If you prefer your prints with a high gloss , you must ferrotype them . Drying procedures are described more fully later in this Assignment .
Figure 12 Using a tray syphon to wash prints .
صنع الطباعة ..
إجراءات الطباعة العامة ..
إصلاح الطباعة ..
غسل الطباعة ..
FIXING THE PRINT
After the rinse or stop bath , transfer the print to the fixing solution in the third tray and rock it gently for 10 to 15 seconds .
At this point , your hands are wet with fixing solution . It is important not to contaminate the developer or to get fixing solution on clothes or pieces of equipment , so rinse your hands thoroughly in running water and dry them on a clean towel . Never wipe fixer - laden hands without rinsing - you only get the chemicals on the towel so that they will come off on your hands every time you wipe them .
If the fixer is fresh , you can turn on the white light and examine the print almost immediately , otherwise it is safer to wait a half minute or so . The best print quality is obtained when the development time recommended by the manufacturer is adhered to exactly . True , if the print is overexposed and comes up with a rush , you can often save it by pulling it out of the developer before the full time is up , or if you have underexposed it , you can let it develop longer to make it dark enough . Neither print , however , will have the rich coloring , the snap , and the well defined tones of a first - class print . That is why it is so important to use a clock when developing prints - only in that way can you be sure of correct exposure and correct development .
If the test print becomes too dark in less than 45 seconds , make another one with half the exposure ; if it is too light even after 2 minutes of developing , make another with twice the exposure . You should by this means finally arrive at the exposure which will give you a good print in the recommended development time .
If your negative is right , it will print best on normal paper . However , it may be too contrasty or too flat , in which case you will have to use some other grade of paper to get the best possible print . Before you leave the print you have just made and go on to the next negative , examine it again under white light to see if its contrast is correct . If the highlights have some tone separation and are not all a pure white , the shadows are rich black and all the intermediate tones correctly rendered in the proper shade of gray , the contrast is correct and you can proceed to the next negative . If the highlights are gray instead of white and the shadows not black enough , the print needs more contrast - try a harder paper , such as a No. 3 , 4 , or even 5. If all the highlights are blank white paper , the shadows a deep black , and most of the middle tones either too dark or too light , the print needs less contrast - try a softer paper , such as a No. 1 or even a No. 0 .
When you try another contrast grade , you may have to make another test print because the speed of any paper is somewhat different for each contrast grade . This difference varies among different brands of paper , so no general rule can be given here , except that the more contrasty grades are usually slower .
Fix the prints for 10 minutes , but be sure to separate them occasionally so they are all exposed to fresh fixing solution during the entire time . Do not overfix them . The longer you fix , the longer it takes to wash the fixing agent out of the fibers of the paper . Also , the fixer dissolves the silver image , although very slowly . If a print is left in the fixing solution for more than 15 minutes in warm weather , some of the highlight detail will be lost and the washing time will be greatly increased . This subject is discussed more fully later .
WASHING THE PRINT
When the prints are fully fixed , put them in a tray of running water and wash them at least 45 minutes . However , if the water doesn't circulate well in the tray , or if it is rather cold , better increase washing time to 1 hour or more . Washing is always figured from the time the last print goes to wash , regardless of how long the others may have been in the water .
A simple washer can be made from a large tray by attaching a rubber hose to a faucet and letting it run along the inside of the tray for 3 or 4 inches . This will impart a swirling motion to the water and keep the prints moving . However , a siphon , such as is shown in Figure 12 does a much better job and is recommended .
NOTE : You can reduce washing time considerably through the use of a good hypo eliminator . This step is discussed later in this Assignment in connection with the washing of enlargements .
When washing is complete , remove the prints from the water , drain thoroughly and roll them up in a blotter roll to dry overnight . If you prefer your prints with a high gloss , you must ferrotype them . Drying procedures are described more fully later in this Assignment .
Figure 12 Using a tray syphon to wash prints .
تعليق